Vintage: 2011
Region: France--Burgundy--Chablis
Appellation: Chablis
Producer: Malandes, Domaine des
BH92-95
Rated 92-95 points by the Burghound: `(from a .53 ha parcel planted in 1962 and matured in mostly older oak but there is a small percentage of new wood). Here too the wood regimen is sufficiently subtle to allow the ultra-pure and elegant aromas of white flowers, lemon rind and mineral reduction to shine. The rich, intense and equally mineral-driven big-bodied flavors are brilliantly well-delineated before exploding into a chiseled, dry, saline-infused, austere and hugely long finish. This will also need plenty of time to come together but it should be well worth the cellar time as this is potentially the best young Malandes Les Clos that I have ever seen.`More information from the Burghound: `Lyne Marchive directs this 25 ha Domaine along with regisseur and enologist Guenole Breteaudeau. Her comments about the 2011 vintage were that `the key to the vintage boiled down to one and only one question: pick early or pick late, it was as simple as that. We chose early as we were afraid that we would lose too much acidity and thus the finesse that we want for our wines. The good news for us is that we have for the most part very old vines and thus lower yields, which almost always allows us to harvest a few days earlier than those who have predominantly younger vines. As such we began picking on the 31st of August and brought in both clean and ripe fruit. Potential alcohols were relatively strong at between 12 and 12.5% and thus there was for all intents and purposes no chaptalization. Another benefit of having old vines is that we often have a high proportion of shot berries and this added to the concentration of our wines, which is important in a vintage like 2011 as I have already tasted some dilute wines. Overall, I love this vintage because it's classic in style but not unduly austere plus it should drink well early if someone prefers it.` Fans of the domaine will note the presence of a new appellation in the form of a Mont de Milieu, which has been leased. It's worth pointing out that Marchive and Breteaudeau continue to drive the quality of the Malandes wines to new heights and 2011 represents the best that I have ever seen from them at least when taken as a whole. Readers who are not familiar with the wines owe it to themselves to try a few bottles. Moreover the prices are reasonable and thus the wines offer excellent price/quality ratios.`
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